How NIGO Built a Fashion Empire
February 22, 2022
BAPE started in 1993, after NIGO binged the Planet of The Apes movies. The distinct ape head logo was also conceptualized during this period.
The brand has strong roots in Japanese fashion and early streetwear brands. BAPE was originally sold in NIGO’s fashion boutique NOWHERE featuring punk inspired looks by Jun Takahashi in UNDERCOVER, and early street looks that were popular in the Harajuku district that the boutique was located in.
Early BAPE pieces were more fit for a couture shop, with most pieces being one-off and extremely expensive. One of the earliest examples of a big name wearing a Bathing Ape would be Biggie rocking a BAPE parka that Shawn Mortensen photographed in 1994.
The most recognizable design by BAPE, the camouflage print, was designed by sk8thing (a popular designer in that niche) coming into the 2000’s. In association with this print would be the full zip hoodie, released in 2004. This iconic hoodie had a zipper that went all the way up past the neck, that enclosed the wearer’s entire face.
Countless artists and celebrities have worn the hoodie, which contributed to the brand’s already growing fame.
At this point in the brand’s history, they had already had stores selling small quantities of BAPE in American retailers.
The most iconic sneaker dropped by BAPE would be the Bapesta, a patent leather shoe reminiscent of Nike’s Air Force 1 sneaker that featured a star shooting across the side. This shoe was massively successful and true pioneers of streetwear all had a pair.
After the release of the Bapesta, NIGO relocated to London, where he hooked up with lawyers and more team members to further grow the brand.
There, he met Jacob the Jeweler, and through him he met Pharrell Williams. NIGO boosted his celebrity status through his relationship with Pharrel. Later that year, paparazzi photographed Lil Wayne wearing BAPE, and NIGO was also seen in one of Pharrel’s music videos.
Soulja Boy also based an entire song off of buying some new Bathing Ape in 2007 that had huge success and raised the brand’s recognition.
BAPE’s influence culminated in 2008’s World Wide Bape Heads Show, which featured musical performances from an early Kanye West.
A Bathing Ape reached its peak around 2010; by then, they had dozens of stores worldwide, a cafe, an art gallery, and dedicated stores for their womenswear and their line of baby clothing.
NIGO stepped down as BAPE’s CEO in 2010. Five years later the brand’s hype would arise again with the introduction of “hypebeast” fashion based on rare Supreme and BAPE pieces.
This would boost the brand’s recognition past celebrities and would bring it back into the spotlight.
As of 2022, BAPE still has relevance; rappers and influencers are still rocking BAPE pieces. A Bathing Ape had one of the longest and most prominent holds on the streetwear scene.